TAKAHIROMIYASHITALe Soloist. Spring / Summer 2022
Mark: TAKAHIROMIYASHITALe Soloist.
Season: Spring / Summer 2022
To buy: SSENSE, MATCHESFASHION.COM
Release date: Early 2022
Editor’s Notes: In some circles, Japanese designer Takahiro Miyashita is a living legend. Archivists are obsessed with the adventure and extreme quality of its old brand, NUMBER (N) INE, and its current project, TAKAHIROMIYASHITATheSoloist.
But Miyashita himself is taking it all in hand, at least publicly. Miyashita is happier to marry her love for personal passions (especially the Beatles) rather than the world of fashion, despite her meticulous design approach. And so, “PAUSE ≒ PLAY”, her SS22 collection revealed at Rakuten Tokyo Fashion Week, isn’t inspired by typically cool benchmarks but by, uh, The Blue Man Group.
“When I was thinking about my past, the Blue Man Group performance that I saw when I was 19 came to mind,” Miyashita told an interviewer. “I admired them for their composure as well as their playfulness.” Hence the appearance of mannequins with painted faces, only revealed when the Solist-branded paper bags were removed at the end of the show.
But, apart from the references of Blue Man Group, TAKAHIROMIYASHITATheSoloist. is another fabulously intricate clothing design demonstration. There are transforming three-way pants, recycled puffy vests, and plenty of unexpected pockets for the ‘free.[ing] bags ourselves, ”Miyashita continued.
“I have repeatedly expressed the urgency to change fashion and have continued to look to the future, but for the first time this season, I felt the need to pause and re-evaluate. … I pressed “pause” for a while in order to press “play” again. “
The largely decommissioned offering features more toe-toe shoes – now in leather! – PVC capes and Victorian lace necklaces, another classic touchstone from Miyashita. But look beyond the super-cropped knit sweaters and drastically deconstructed cuts and witness the exceptional attention to detail throughout.
Miyashita affects a laid back demeanor but, behind the scenes, is a master craftsman, obsessed with every minor detail. Like The Blue Man Group, maybe.